He finally went to Verona

Updated 12/9/2025

Verona, 10/17/2025 - 10/20/2025

Impressions: Jackpot! Hits the sweet spot of size/walkability and big city feel and vibe; in Spanish you'd say "tiene un ambientazo que flipas!" It also has a Roman amphitheater and Juliette's house - that would be Juliette, Romeo's girlfriend. His house is here too although Juliette's is the main attraction.

Like everything else in Italy, Verona is gorgeous in its own way, but next level. I think it even beats Bergamo in terms of scenic appeal.

It's Friday so (why not) there's a wine tasting event happening all over the old city in the big piazzas. Plenty of tourists but it doesn't quite feel over the top with them like Milan does. Like I should talk.

Piazza Bra 1 — The big piazza near the apartment.

Piazza Bra 2 — Setting up for the wine tasting event this evening. You can spy the amphitheater between the trees in the background.

View from Palazzo Maffei — View from the terrace atop the Palazzo Maffei, in the middle of everything. I used to look at European landscape paintings and think "that can't be real, they must have made it up." Nope, your evidence to the contrary is right here.

View along the river. That hill left of center? I ended up going up because I found out you could.

View from Castel San Pietro back toward the center, at the top of aforementioned hill.

Accomodations

Jackpot again! After the cramped quarters in Mantua I can breathe - this place is neck and neck with the one in Brescia for best of the trip so far. It's plenty spacious and the ceilings have to be 11 or 12 feet. The windows are 6 feet high!

Basilica di Sant'Anastasia, 10/18/2025

In the center there are four large churches they push as a package deal; this is one of them. Not bad but I found some more interesting stuff when I got off the beaten path just a little.

Basilica di Sant'Anastasia exterior — Ever think about all the random people in these photos? And how many of *other* peoples' photos *you* appear in?

On the left, St. George and the Princess by Pisanello, 1433 - 1438

Frescoes by Falconetto — The Assumption of the Virgin with Saint Nicholas and Saint Cecilia by Alessandro Turchi; The Deposition and The Miracle of Saint Hyacinth by Paolo Farinati.

3 paintings in Sant'Anastasia — Jesus Calls the First Apostles, The Crucifixion, and Jesus Entering Capharnaum by Giovanni Falconetto

Palazzo Maffei, 10/18/2025

Well this was a letdown. I only shot a single painting and I'm not even gonna post it because it isn't very good. However the view from the terrace was nice and there was this great quote from Picasso, who had a bunch of great ones.

Juliette's House, 10/18/2025

I was told I should at least go and get a photo from outside, so here it is.

Juliette's House signage — The state of the sign corresponds very well with my feeling about the place.

Chiesa Santa Maria in Organo, 10/18/2025

Just off the beaten path... cross the river and there's sort of an alternative route of churches, these all free to enter. I was approached by a very nice volunteer who showed me all around the place and told me all kinds of interesting stuff. "In Organo" has a meaning apart from the musical instrument and internal organs, but I didn't quite get his explanation...

Painting 1 from Chiesa Santa Maria in Organo

Painting 2 from Chiesa Santa Maria in Organo

Wood inlay 1 from Chiesa Santa Maria in Organo — This is crazy. You're probably thinking "oh what a nice painting on the wood cabinetry."

Wood inlay 2 from Chiesa Santa Maria in Organo — NO! The image is created by hundreds of little pieces of wood, each stained slightly differently. Kind of like a stone mosaic, but with wood. Are you kidding me?!

Chiesa San Giorgio in Braida, 10/18/2025

Another one from the alternative route...

Altar painting in Chiesa San Giorgio by Veronese, circa 1555. "The altarpiece was an opportunity for Veronese to show off his excellent skills as a colorist." I'll say!

Saint Cecilia and Martyred Saints by Moretto da Brescia, 1540

Martyrdom of St. Lawrence by Sigismondo De'Stefani, 1564

Il Duomo, 10/18/2025

Frescoes in il Duomo — Pretty epic frescoes

More frescoes in il Duomo — Not clear on the artist(s) though

Unfortunate lighting, but this is Assumption by Titian

Castelvecchio, 10/19/2025

A fair collection of religious paintings and sculpture from around 13th - 17th centuries, in another old fortress that they keep finding new uses for. I saw a couple artists here I don't think I saw anywhere else, or at least if I did they were overshadowed by greater talents.

Nativity by Unknown — *Nativity*, unknown Veronese painter, 15th century. I though this oddball was interesting because it's black and white, and for the date the figures are well drawn.

Veritas Filia Temporis by Caroto — *Veritas Filia Temporis* by Giovan Francesco Caroto.

The Incredulity of St. Thomas by Bassetti — *The Incredulity of St. Thomas* by Marcantonio Bassetti. Look at him just jam his finger right in there!

Descent from the Cross by Veronese — *Descent from the Cross* by Veronese. The paintings aren't dated here but I'm guessing this is an early one because it's not his best.

Christ Shown to the People by Farinati — *Christ Shown to the People* by Paolo Farinati.

Adoration of the Magi by Turchi — *Adoration of the Magi* by Alessandro Turchi.

Portrait of a Man by Strozzi — *Portrait of a Man* by Bernardo Strozzi.

Portrait of an Old Man with a Book by Bassetti — *Portrait of an Old Man with a Book* by Marcantonio Bassetti.

Basilica di San Zeno, 10/19/2025

Art-wise it gets a "meh," but the friezes around the front door are kinda cool. I'm curious about the stripes - the alternating rows of stone and brick, also seen on il Duomo. Was it purely decorative, could they not get enough of the white stone, or was it a combination of both?

The Roman Arena, 10/19/2025

I wasn't gonna get a ticket to go inside but was convinced otherwise. In the old days they used it for gladiator fights or fights versus wild animals. They still use it now for theater and concerts, which is pretty neat.